l'arte d'arrangiarsi

Oh boy, and did I make something out of nothing. I've just returned from my Italian class, which up until stasera, was going rather well. And then, possessive adjectives. Sweet Jesus! Is it necessary to have a masculine & feminine singular and plural form for each pronoun? That equates to something like 24 forms I have to memorize. Shit!! So anyway, I'm sitting across from Dan, the blond haired blue eyed god in human form, who insists on placing himself directly in my line of vision every single class, trying to sort my way through this train wreck of a lesson while not allowing drool to pool on my textbook. And then it happens. Its my turn to create a sentence using the appropriate grammar, which I don't know and can't focus on; and instead of saying "non lo so", meaning I don't know, I blurt out "figlio di mignotta". Um, that means son of a bitch. . . and la professoressa e italiano. And she fully understands me. To make matters worse, Dan's gorgeous little Italian girlfriend is standing in the hallway just outside the door by which I'm sitting, and she hears me. Cue laughter. Follow that up with a hilarious discussion of my proficient use of Italian profanity underscored by my infantile use of the rest of the language. English, Italian, apparently I'm a sailor in any language. So what did I get out of tonight's two hours of class? A list of my favorite Italian curses. Enjoy amici!

Puttana: bitch/whore
Vaffanculo: go F#ck yourself/F#ck you, depending on context
Figlio di mignotta: son of a bitch
Stronzo: shithead
Cafone: asshole
Che bordello: what a friggin mess

Passettino

Who knew that even thinking about moving to Rome would cause me this much agony. I know without a doubt that someday I will be receiving my mail there on a full time basis; the question is how soon will that be? If it weren't for my job, I think the decision would be very easy. In fact, a "For Rent" sign would be in my yard as we speak, or I write, or whatever. The problem is I have the perfect teaching job and I'm finally making some decent money. When I walk away from this one, it has to be with full knowledge and acceptance that I will NEVER have this teaching position again. And, I don't like teaching enough to just teach anything. If I'm not teaching AP Psych, well let's be honest, someone else can be responsible for educating, or warping if you like, young minds.

Anyway, while I wrestle with this monumental issue, I have taken a baby step towards becoming more of an Italian by enrolling in a language classe. Fortunately, this one seems to be better than the debaucle, albeit an immensely fun debaucle, I was involved in during my tenure in Rome. I actually understand one or two guidelines about prepositions and I've only had 2 classes. Sweet Jesus, there may be hope for me yet, to do something other than curse at people. . . yeah, probably not, even with fluency in the language.

Studio Italia amici!

Language class in America and attempting to read "The Little Prince" (best book ever) in Italian. Oh, and sorry about shoe catalog, I was doing some hooker heels shopping, ha!

Don't know how I forgot to post this one

I was labeling pictures on my flickr account when I came across this beauty. I must be losing my edge; in my prime I would have emailed it to everyone I know right after I took it. You can figure out what it looks like. . . nasty people!

Houston, we have a problem

ok, allora, so, . . .damn it! I have now been home for almost 2 weeks. That's plenty of time to readjust from 2 months away. Or is it? I haven't. What is the problem! I really did miss my friends and family; it has been wonderful to see them all again. I went to my parents beach house for 6 days and tried to put things into perspective; it didn't work. Every day, I look at the cheap bracelet around my wrist that says "Trastevere" and seriously wish to be walking, or tripping after my second liter of vino, on those cobble stoned streets. I even miss hearing the delinquents piss and barf outside my window at 5:30 in the morning. Things here have lost their edge; I can't find bright and shiny anymore. I miss working to understand conversations around me; being able to eavesdrop so easily irritates me. I still think simple phrases in Italian and remind myself not to say them out loud; it seems pretentious. I feel myself becoming very torn about my future. Unless it has been experienced, I have a difficult time explaining what it is about that place that speaks to me. I know that some of the feelings are because its "new" and not just plain old life. But that doesn't account for all of what I feel about Italy. There is a presence in the moment that captures my attention and makes me appreciate now. In Italy, tomorrow might not happen; it is today that matters. "Stories" are written because they are available and make up the chapters of our lives. As with good food and wine, relationships with people are to be savored and enjoyed for the time they are available. People spend hours sitting and chatting instead of racing around to appointments. Games between people are not the norm; but the exception. Simplicity reigns in most aspects of life; there is real passion in that way of living. I miss it. Guess that case of vino I brought home will have to carry me through. . . at least for 2 days!!

photo taken by Beth G.

Hard Landing Softened by Great Friends

Well, I'm home. I have now been wandering around my house aimlessly wondering where the hell I'm going to find a good cappuccino within walking distance. I haven't driven a car in 2 months and really just don't want to. Shit! Oh boy, I'm getting cranky!

The flight home was actually quite nice. I scored the best seat on the whole plane, purely by accident. I was seated on the aisle seat of the bulkhead separating cattle car class from business class. Since it was a 777 there is no wall so I had about 6 feet of blissful open space in front of me. And as a bonus, the handicap lav was about 3 feet to my right. The guy beside me, Luca, was an Italian from Florence, visiting the States for the first time. We had a great time talking about both countries. Yippee for me! Unfortunately, about 5 hours into our 10 hour flight, there was a woman who went into serious medical distress, a suspected deep vein thrombosis and cardiac issues. They put her in the flight attendant's seat across from me; not fun to watch a woman sick and terrified at 30,000 with land at least an hour and a half away. Fortunately there were 2 doctors and a herd of nurses on the flight to stabilize her. We had to make a medical emergency landing in Newfoundland on an airstrip that I swear was in someone's back yard. Paramedics took her off, we refueled, and headed on to Dulles. I will never know what happened to that woman; I wish her the very best though.

So, through customs and immigration I go. I was psyched that my luggage was not dripping or smelling of wine, since I had packed about 7 bottles of my favorites, some olive oil, and my holy liquor. Joey was supposed to be waiting for me outside of Int'l arrivals; I'm looking and can't find him. Scanning the throngs of people, I finally spy two familiar faces a bit back in the line. Liz and Joe were standing there with cowboy hats on, waiving little American flags, and yelling "welcome to America" in ridiculous accents. It was hilarious and eased the pain of prying myself out of a country I love more than anything. To further soften my return, they had packed wine, cheese, nuts, etc. for a little patio party at my house. We cracked open a bottle of my Brunello di Montelcino and laughed, drank, and gossiped. Liz and I then headed out to O'Connells for a couple of drinks. After being up for over 24 hours, I finally went to bed glad to see my amazing friends again. Thanks Liz and Joe!!!

Beth and I decide sleep is not needed before our flights home. A final picture in my apartment.


"Welcome to America"

O'Connells; I did miss that place!

Liz loves booze, too!

Allora. . . .

So I sit here at the airport waiting to board my flight back to the US. It is with mixed feelings that I write this last post. I am profoundly sad to leave Italy and everything, both good and bad, that comes with her. Locking the keys inside that flat and getting in the taxi was one of the hardest things I've done in a while. I find it interesting that Rome became home to me so fast; I really do find myself more intune with the culture and pace of life here. There is also excitement about returning to Virginia. I am looking forward to getting back to all my friends and family. While this has been the most amazing 2 month experience and I've made some great friends along the way, I have found myself missing you people. Who would have thought, huh ;-) And with that said, I would like to thank you guys for checking in periodically to see what nonsense was going on. I wasn't sure about the blog thing when it started, but it has been fun keeping you guys updated and getting all of the comments and emails in response. Who knows, maybe if I do end up moving over here, this blog will move from temporary to permanent.



Allora, its time to say "Arrivederci Italia e un presto!"

"Ciao Virginia." My flight lands around 3pm this afternoon; and, because my summer vacation is not yet over, I think I will be at O'Connells drinking American style this evening, if any of you are up for beers. Yup, that's just how I roll. . . .haaaaaaa!!!!

Ciao ragazzi, molto birre, per favore!

Buon Anniversario

Happy Anniversary to Mom and Dad. Today is their 857th anniversary. Ok, not really; its their 42nd! A toast to them, from Roma on my final night. "Salute, cin cin!"

The happy couple in Montepulciano

The fat lady is about to sing

It pains me to write this next sentence, but here goes: tonight is my final night in Italy; I leave tomorrow morning. Please allow me a moment to wipe the tears off my keyboard. **sniff**


The last couple of days have been so much fun. Beth G. arrived around midnight on Saturday after spending a few days with her friend in Paris. In keeping with the theme for this whole summer, we immediately went down to the river and got our drink on until around 4am when they closed and told us to leave. Not being nearly late enough, we stopped at the bar below my flat until the sky started to lighten up for morning. I believe we went to bed around 5:45am. As a random aside, we were sitting chatting when the guy at the next table asked us if we were Americans because his buddy sitting there was one. Turns out this guy is from Fairfax and has been living in Rome for 7 years. Also turns out those 2 guys were the ones I saw snorting coke off the seat of a scooter a couple of weeks ago. So we made out with both of them. . . . . . totally kidding. Or am I?


Beth has a couple of friends from DC who are also in Rome for a few days; they are really fun and I look forward to catching up with them back in the States. So we're are off for some final moments here in Roma of excellent food, wine, history, shopping, and gawking at men.


Hey, all: Beth taking over the blog for a second here! i must begin by saying what an excellent host Carrie has been an how much fun we've had over the past couple days--this crazy woman has met her match here in Roma--a city as fun, weird, and lively as she is. We've been taking it pretty easy, just hanging out, drinking, and eating (3 gelati down, at least 2 more scheduled before the plane takes off tomorrow).


Yesterday we did manage to make it over to the Villa Borghese, where we ran into some shiny faced young candidate for the priesthood (he was heartbroken when we told him that we did NOT plan to fight the swarming masses of tourists at the Vatican that day to say howdy to Benny Ratz...). OH, and we also saw some amazing, mindblowing art. In particular, the self portraits painted by Carravagio (apparently he was a COMPLETE freak on a stick, so Carrie has decided she' have totally dated him) and 3 of the most famous sculptures by Bernini: David, The Rape of Persephone and Apollo and Daphne. All three are life turned to stone--you can almost see them breathing. Amazing.


Today we're off to the Bone Church to see creepy Capuchin monks and the creepy way they have decorated their church using human bones. House and Garden has nothing on these dudes. Thanks to Carrie again for such an amazing time and arrivederci!!
--B.G.

We love booze!!

Signs of the Times

street sign on my building

main piazza of my neighborhood

friend's street & great cafes

street for wireless cafe, or as Loralei named it, sperm cafe.

lots of drinks at Artu on this street

Isola Tremiti and Termoli

Just got back from a brilliant 5 days at the beach. Its always a bit sketchy when you are going to a place that is not super touristy and has minimal info. in your guidebooks. Fortunately, I lucked out. With the exception of one day that I spent hiking around the paths of San Domino and swimming in every little cove I found, it really was a very lazy few days. I layed on the beach, swam in the sea, drank local white wine, and ate seafood. The biggest adventure was the 35 kilometer ferry ride out to Isola Tremiti. I get seasick just thinking about being on a boat in the middle of the ocean, so this was a huge accomplishment. I didn't even barf. Hooray!!! They are five islands in the Adriatic with some of the bluest water I have ever seen. Only 2 of the islands are inhabited at all, and only one of the two, San Nicola, is year round. For those into history, San Nicola is where Emperor Augustus' daughter, Julia, was exiled in the 1st century for being an adulteress. The other 3 are nature preserves and huge masses of tufo rock. The hiking paths on San Domino are really nice because of the shade and the smells. When the wind blows from one direction it smells like the sea and when it switches directions it smells like the pine forest that covers the entire island.

Old town of Termoli

the beach at Termoli

according to legend if you only come to Termoli for one reason, that reason is the sunset and/or to fall in love. Hmmm. . . .couldn't that be 2 reasons?


light house on San Domino, one of Isola Tremiti

view from ferry of San Domino's free beach, spent a whole day there!

view from my sun chair on San Domino

one of the coves we hiked down to swim in.

another cove, found a sea urchin on a rock!

on the path that goes around the whole island

from the path

lunch!

San Nicola

sunset on the ferry back to Termoli

How do you know who the lifeguard is in Termoli? He is the one with "lifeguard" printed on the ass of his little speedo and plays paddle ball all day long.

because I thought my footprint was cool.

To add icing on the cake, the train ride was also gorgeous. I had to spend two hours in a seaside town called Pescara while changing trains. It did not suck. And, since I had to cut straight across the country, we went right through the middle of the Southern Apennines. I took a few pictures of the mountains/valleys but only a couple came out since we were always moving.

Pescara, waiting for the train to Roma.

The Apennines from the train

Oh, and as another layer of icing, I spent the five days with my "friend" Marco that I met in Gallipoli. Did you catch mention of that a few posts back? Yup, he left his holiday in the south to meet me for a few days on the Adriatic. Very sad goodbye to him this morning at the station, as he returned to Gallipoli and I to Rome. Unfortunately, he will not be back in Rome until after I leave for the States. Its a great and sweet story that is not for the "blogosphere". You'll have to catch up to me in person to get the details.

Marco

again