Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Centro, Triana, and Arenal

Centro is the shopping district of the city. Pretty much anything you could want is here: designer clothes, ceramics, Flamenco costumes, custom made hats, Sephora, H&M, etc. There are a couple little churches tucked into the mess and of course little bars. Because the sun is so hot, they string these massive canvases across the streets so the pedestrian shopping zones stay in the shade. Very clever, these people.
Ayuntimiento, city hall whose frieze wasn’t finished because the city ran out of money. It sits on Plaza de San Francisco, the sit of public trials for heretics during the Inquisition.

a 1924 tile ad for Studebakers in the shopping district

La Magdalena church

Casa de la Condesa Lebrija, the home of a single countess who traveled the world in the 1800’s collecting Roman ruins, etc. She remodeled her 15th century house, often, to fit the antiquities she collected from her travels. Bitch, I can’t even afford to have a vase shipped home, much less move entire mosaic floors.

the glassed in porch leading to the summer dining room

some of the mosaics she had salvaged and moved to her home

the summer dining room. I want seasonal dining rooms!

the grand staircase

Baroque architecture officially freaks me out, Iglesia Del Salvador

restored courtyard of a bank. . . awesome!

Triana is the neighborhood across the river from Santa Cruz, Centro, and Arenal. Its known for being the home of most of Sevilla’s top Flamenco perfomers as well as the city’s ceramics producers. It definitely still has a working class vibe to it and is not as touristy as Santa Cruz. No English gets spoken on this side of the river. I’m still not sure if the way too expensive ceramic bowl I bought can actually be used to hold anything. And, I have no idea how I’m going to get this thing home in one piece. Good move on my part. I should have had my Tinto de Verano after I went shopping.


Rodrigo de Triana Monument; he was the lucky guy assigned crow’s nest duty on Columbus’ La Pinta when they were close enough to see land. His words “Tierra,” marking the first person to lay eyes on the Americas, are on the bottom of the monument. That’s just funny.
Iglesia de Santa Ana, legend has it that children baptized here are given the gift of Flamenco singing and dancing

Pila de los Gitanos, the baptismal font, I was going to take some holy water for my sister but didn’t want to curse myself

the underside of all the balconies have amazing ceramic tile work
statue honoring Traina’s many reknowned Flamenco dancers

Capalita del Carmen, random little chapel that sits at the end of a bridge into Triana

the passageway from the river, through which suspected heretics were dragged into the headquarters of the Inquisition
fresh food market of Triana





Ceramica Santa Ana, scene of expensive impulse buy
Arenal is between the Cathedral and the river. I walked back through this part of the city to find the Plaza de torros de la Maestranza, otherwise known as the Bullfighting Arena. I’m going to put on my big girl pants and go on Thursday night. I don’t know if I will stay to watch all 6 of the bulls be “dispatched,” (that’s the Spaniards’ polite way of saying they kill the bull by putting a sword between its shoulder blades to pierce its heart, in the ring, IN FRONT OF YOU), but I will at least be there for 1 to say I’ve done it. I may need therapy after this.

tile ad for Manzanilla, chilled sherry Hospital de la Caridad, founded in 1674 as a charity hospital; it stills cares for the elderly and sick

random traffic circle

Torre del Oro believed to once have been covered in gold

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